Portraiture is the art of painting or taking portraits.
Antonio Mora
This photo is shot by Antonio Mora, as he creates a double exposure effect. He uses the bottom half of a face which has been merged into a picturesque set of mountains. This creates a unique feel to the photo. He mixes the human mind with nature, symbolising the peace and tranquillity messaged through this portrait. He also uses the black and white effect to bring his photo together.
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However, in this portrait, Mora uses a hint of colour. He uses three-quarters of a face, with the last quarter of it merged into an image using the double exposure effect. Colour is what I will be using for my photographs and the hint of yellow in this will be inspired by myself within my own photos.
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This picture is similar to a lot of Mora's work, of half of the face blended into a set of mountains. He once again creates a double exposure effect and a black and white effect which brings a dark, gloomy contrast within the photo.
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My photographs in the style of Antonio Mora:
Unedited: |
Edited: |
These photos are in the style of Antonio Mora. I have chosen to use colour to alter the style of his photography. I used a mixture images- of people and of nature itself which was necessary as Mora's principle focus is blending nature into the human minds. I edited all photos using Adobe Photoshop CC 2017.
Photo 1- I cropped the image evenly so only the head was the main focus. I decreased the contrast which darkened the image in the right areas which was the background and the top of the head. Reducing the contrast created a grainy effect. I then chose my merging image which was a tree. Although Mora mainly uses mountains/clouds, he focuses on nature. I did not want to repeatedly use clouds in my work. As it was difficult to capture mountains, using other areas of nature definitely enhanced my images such as the sea/flowers. Additionally, I used the quick selection tool and outlined around the tree that I wanted on my image. I zoomed in on certain aspects of the tree, for instance between the branches as some areas of the sky would appear which is what I did not want visible. Once I traced around the tree, I placed the image on top of the head- the small gaps that I removed (within the image of the tree) enabled the original image to seep through which was necessary. I used the layers effect to blend the branches into the head smoothly without creating a harsh image. The branches were long enough to go over the head which was the same as the style of Mora. I finalised by sharpening the branches of the tree that were positioned on the face which created an image in high quality.
Photo 2- I began by cropping the image so that the head was the principle focus on the image. Using the adjustments bar, I decreased the saturation to lower the harshness of the original colours of the image. I then chose the image that I wanted to blend in with the image which was a sunset on the motorway. I used the quick selection tool to trace around the areas that were necessary- in this case, it was the actual sunset and beneath it which was a road full of cars. I outlined this so it would suitably fit into the shape of the head (a semi-circle shape). Before positioning this onto the head, I changed the initial colour of the image by using the channel mixer and adjusted this. I altered it so it was a red tone which meant that for it to suitably blend into the original image I had to change the tones of the original image. By using the channel mixer, I positioned it at the redder tones which therefore created a red/pink undertone to the original image. I then positioned the image of the sunset onto the head. This produced quite a harsh image placed abruptly onto the head so I used the layers effect to evenly blend this image onto the head. I chose the most suitable effect which blended well into the head and also with the background which had red undertones. With the sunset image, I used the quick selection tool and traced around the clouds. I duplicated this onto the image and copied these clouds by scattering them above the head. I used the layers effect and made sure the clouds were blended well with the background.
Photo 3- For this image, I merged two images together that I thought would combine suitably. I began by adjusting the original photo and completely decreased the saturation for, once again, a black and white edit. I used the quick selection tool to cut round the background and then filled in using a light grey colour that matched with the colour of saturation I positioned it as. This then enabled the image to be balanced, with the same shade of grey in all aspects of the photo. For the second image that I merged, I began by using the quick selection tool to cut out the areas that I wanted to appear. I then decreased the saturation slightly on the picture so only a hint of colour is shown in the flowers. I decreased the contrast as I did not want it to appear extremely harsh, so it would easily merge together. I used the layers tool to merge the second image of flowers into the head. Once I positioned this in to an area I wanted, I decreased the brightness so it was well blended into the head and further merged the image by using the layer effect which helped me finish my blending process as I was finally satisfied with the result. I duplicated the second image and then erased the centre of the image so all that was left was the soft outlines around the initial image. This produced many soft lines in which I used around the image to create a "cracked" effect. I adapted my own ideas with Mora's to create such a distinctive piece.
Photo 4- I cropped the image so only the head was in focus as well as some background. I then decreased the saturation completely and also decreased the contrast slightly to create a grainy effect in the centre. This further darkened the image as I then used the paint brush tool in black, decreased the hardness completely, and touched around the edges of the image. I then chose the flower image and began to trace around the areas that I wanted using the quick selection tool. I decreased the saturation as the original colour was initially too harsh for the image. I rotated the image and placed it across the head as though it was coming out of the head. Using the layers effect, this helped with blending the flowers into image without creating a harsh outline. I further blended this by using the eraser tool with the hardness completely decreased and very slightly brushing against the edges of the flower so it was blended into the background. The image itself was quite dark so I increased the brightness and sharpened the image to finish.
Photo 5- Firstly, I chose my portrait picture (from my unedited inspired photos) and edited it- I cropped to suit the layout of how Mora displays within his photographs. After this, I used the quick selection tool to cut around the head and shoulders to remove the excess background. I decreased the saturation to create a black and white effect which was what I ideally wanted. I increased the contrast to darken certain areas of the photo so it portrayed a more appealing and professional look. I used the paintbrush tool and decreased the opacity so it would not be displayed as too harsh and changed the colour to a more grayer tone. I did this so it would be colour coordinated with the level of saturation in the photo, which was black and white. Once I was satisfied with the result, I used an extra photo to merge to this image. Mora combines nature photos to his portraits which was what I wanted to accomplish. I used a photo with a picturesque view to merge with the photo. I began by decreasing the saturation, aiming for a black and white effect so it could easily combine together (the two photos) and then used the quick selection tool to cut out certain aspects of the photo that would unite perfectly within the original photo. In this case, it was the clouds. I cut around the clouds I thought were the most ideal to the picture. I then changed the type of layer to lightly merge the cloud above the head. I duplicated this image to create lots of clouds to linger above the head just like how Mora creates this in his images. Once I clustered these edits together above the head, I used the quick selection tool to cut out the sea in the photo. I wanted to merge this aspect into the photo and completed this by cutting around it and placing it by the face and below. I already decreased the saturation earlier (with the clouds) and then used the layering effect in the right-hand side to merge this softly. This will create a more softer approach. You are able to see the water outlines but not as harshly as before. Finally, I used the sharpening tool to finish the image achieving a professional finish.
Photo 1- I cropped the image evenly so only the head was the main focus. I decreased the contrast which darkened the image in the right areas which was the background and the top of the head. Reducing the contrast created a grainy effect. I then chose my merging image which was a tree. Although Mora mainly uses mountains/clouds, he focuses on nature. I did not want to repeatedly use clouds in my work. As it was difficult to capture mountains, using other areas of nature definitely enhanced my images such as the sea/flowers. Additionally, I used the quick selection tool and outlined around the tree that I wanted on my image. I zoomed in on certain aspects of the tree, for instance between the branches as some areas of the sky would appear which is what I did not want visible. Once I traced around the tree, I placed the image on top of the head- the small gaps that I removed (within the image of the tree) enabled the original image to seep through which was necessary. I used the layers effect to blend the branches into the head smoothly without creating a harsh image. The branches were long enough to go over the head which was the same as the style of Mora. I finalised by sharpening the branches of the tree that were positioned on the face which created an image in high quality.
Photo 2- I began by cropping the image so that the head was the principle focus on the image. Using the adjustments bar, I decreased the saturation to lower the harshness of the original colours of the image. I then chose the image that I wanted to blend in with the image which was a sunset on the motorway. I used the quick selection tool to trace around the areas that were necessary- in this case, it was the actual sunset and beneath it which was a road full of cars. I outlined this so it would suitably fit into the shape of the head (a semi-circle shape). Before positioning this onto the head, I changed the initial colour of the image by using the channel mixer and adjusted this. I altered it so it was a red tone which meant that for it to suitably blend into the original image I had to change the tones of the original image. By using the channel mixer, I positioned it at the redder tones which therefore created a red/pink undertone to the original image. I then positioned the image of the sunset onto the head. This produced quite a harsh image placed abruptly onto the head so I used the layers effect to evenly blend this image onto the head. I chose the most suitable effect which blended well into the head and also with the background which had red undertones. With the sunset image, I used the quick selection tool and traced around the clouds. I duplicated this onto the image and copied these clouds by scattering them above the head. I used the layers effect and made sure the clouds were blended well with the background.
Photo 3- For this image, I merged two images together that I thought would combine suitably. I began by adjusting the original photo and completely decreased the saturation for, once again, a black and white edit. I used the quick selection tool to cut round the background and then filled in using a light grey colour that matched with the colour of saturation I positioned it as. This then enabled the image to be balanced, with the same shade of grey in all aspects of the photo. For the second image that I merged, I began by using the quick selection tool to cut out the areas that I wanted to appear. I then decreased the saturation slightly on the picture so only a hint of colour is shown in the flowers. I decreased the contrast as I did not want it to appear extremely harsh, so it would easily merge together. I used the layers tool to merge the second image of flowers into the head. Once I positioned this in to an area I wanted, I decreased the brightness so it was well blended into the head and further merged the image by using the layer effect which helped me finish my blending process as I was finally satisfied with the result. I duplicated the second image and then erased the centre of the image so all that was left was the soft outlines around the initial image. This produced many soft lines in which I used around the image to create a "cracked" effect. I adapted my own ideas with Mora's to create such a distinctive piece.
Photo 4- I cropped the image so only the head was in focus as well as some background. I then decreased the saturation completely and also decreased the contrast slightly to create a grainy effect in the centre. This further darkened the image as I then used the paint brush tool in black, decreased the hardness completely, and touched around the edges of the image. I then chose the flower image and began to trace around the areas that I wanted using the quick selection tool. I decreased the saturation as the original colour was initially too harsh for the image. I rotated the image and placed it across the head as though it was coming out of the head. Using the layers effect, this helped with blending the flowers into image without creating a harsh outline. I further blended this by using the eraser tool with the hardness completely decreased and very slightly brushing against the edges of the flower so it was blended into the background. The image itself was quite dark so I increased the brightness and sharpened the image to finish.
Photo 5- Firstly, I chose my portrait picture (from my unedited inspired photos) and edited it- I cropped to suit the layout of how Mora displays within his photographs. After this, I used the quick selection tool to cut around the head and shoulders to remove the excess background. I decreased the saturation to create a black and white effect which was what I ideally wanted. I increased the contrast to darken certain areas of the photo so it portrayed a more appealing and professional look. I used the paintbrush tool and decreased the opacity so it would not be displayed as too harsh and changed the colour to a more grayer tone. I did this so it would be colour coordinated with the level of saturation in the photo, which was black and white. Once I was satisfied with the result, I used an extra photo to merge to this image. Mora combines nature photos to his portraits which was what I wanted to accomplish. I used a photo with a picturesque view to merge with the photo. I began by decreasing the saturation, aiming for a black and white effect so it could easily combine together (the two photos) and then used the quick selection tool to cut out certain aspects of the photo that would unite perfectly within the original photo. In this case, it was the clouds. I cut around the clouds I thought were the most ideal to the picture. I then changed the type of layer to lightly merge the cloud above the head. I duplicated this image to create lots of clouds to linger above the head just like how Mora creates this in his images. Once I clustered these edits together above the head, I used the quick selection tool to cut out the sea in the photo. I wanted to merge this aspect into the photo and completed this by cutting around it and placing it by the face and below. I already decreased the saturation earlier (with the clouds) and then used the layering effect in the right-hand side to merge this softly. This will create a more softer approach. You are able to see the water outlines but not as harshly as before. Finally, I used the sharpening tool to finish the image achieving a professional finish.
Cole Thompson
This photo is shot by Cole Thompson. He focuses a great deal on the man, who is the centre of the picture. There is a blur effect on the person's face which is what I will incorporate within my photographs. All of his photos typically consist of the black and white effect- he uses this deliberately to create a ghostly effect. He darkens the background leaving all the focus on the centre. This creates a lonely impression and clearly portrays what he wanted us, as an audience to see.
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Similarly, this picture presents a lonely impression as he focuses all the attention on the man in centre. The background is darkened towards the corners and the ground. Once again, he uses a black and white effect to create a dismal atmosphere. However, he lightens the centre of the picture, where the man is looking ahead which displays a message: when being at your darkest points you will find light and recover.
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Thompson, once again maintains the black and white effect however has a much brighter background than his previous edits. He focuses on a lone man who is sat right in the centre of the picture. The background is more clear and has stayed lighter than the others. It remains detailed, showing the outline of the clouds and the ground in more detail. The picture remains hung onto a thread of eeriness however the brightness connotes a less dreary atmosphere.
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My photographs in the style of Cole Thompson:
Unedited:
I captured these photos during the afternoon to receive the most natural lighting in my photos. I shot a range of photos- with different people and expressions. I wanted to display expressive photography as this would combine well with a black and white effect which was inspired from the style of Cole Thompson's work as his images are edited typically in a black and white effect. I was unable to use similar backgrounds to what Thompson uses in his photos, however he uses a range of backgrounds and I was influenced to do so in mine. I chose to take my pictures in different aspects of my garden. This was an efficient way for me to choose which photos were a clear representation of Thompson's style and whether I would achieve a high quality edit.
Edited:
These photos are in the style of Cole Thompson. I chose the most professional, accurate photos that clearly displayed Thompson's style of photography.. All photos are edited on Adobe Photoshop CC 2017.
Photo 1- I began by cropping it and slightly rotating to lay it out completely straight. I edited using the adjustments bar which is in the image bar at the top and decreased the saturation to get my ideal black and white effect that was necessary for my inspired photographer (Cole Thompson). After this, I increased the contrast to darken the more contrasting areas- which are the darker areas. This balanced out the photo so it does not appear too light or too dark. Additionally, this lead on to levels. This gave me the perfect balance as both contrasting areas of the photo (light and dark) balanced evenly- as I fiddled with the level, this created the areas I wanted lighter or darker. I decreased the exposure and I was satisfied with the result. After editing the initial photo, I began to focus more closely. In Cole Thompson's photography, he uses a sort of blur in certain aspects in his photo which then inspired me to do the same. I used the quick selection tool to cut out the areas I wanted an ideal blur. In this case I cut out the face, around the head including the hand. I then used a blur tool, motion blur which is in the filter bar at the top and blurred until the level was around 8-10. I opted for a natural blur. This created a more ghostly effect on the photo which is in the style of Thompson's photos. Once pleased with the outcome, I wanted to finalise by darkening the edges lightly which is what Thompson constantly applies. I used the paintbrush tool, changed the shape so it was more pointed and large and decreased the opacity so it is not extremely harsh around the edges. I chose to apply it lightly so it would give a natural darkness to the corners of the image and completed my image by sharpening the centre as it is the lightest area of the photo.
Photo 2- To begin with, I cropped the image so it would give me a perfectly even layout. Once satisfied with the layout of the image, I decreased the saturation completely so it was a full black and white shot. I did this using the adjustments bar which is in the image bar at the top. After this, I increased the contrast to darken the more contrasting areas- which are the darker areas. This balanced out the photo so it does not appear too light or too dark. I mainly fiddled with the adjustments bar, balancing the image with levels and sharpening just above the centre of the image, to make it appear more lighter. I used the quick selection tool that is placed on the left, and cut out the ground- in this case I cut around the edge of the grass on both sides. I wanted to create a more gloomy effect so decreased the exposure which darkened it to my suitability. I then used the smudge tool for the areas I wanted an ideal blur- in this case just above the face. I decreased the hardness so it wouldn't have smudged massively. By decreasing the harshness, this enabled only a slight blur. To compliment with the smudge tool I used, I then used the quick selection tool and cut out the face, excluding the upper proportion, the head which had previously been blurred. I then used a blur tool, motion blur which is in the filter bar at the top and blurred until the level was around 8-10. I kept it at that level as I did not want it extremely blurry so that it would be difficult to see the face. Finally I wanted to finalise by darkening the edges lightly which is what Thompson constantly applies. I used the paintbrush tool, changed the shape so it was more pointed and large and decreased the opacity so it is not extremely harsh around the edges. I chose to apply it lightly so it would give a natural darkness to the corners of the image.
Photo 3- Firstly, I cropped the image to straighten the initial layout of the photo. It is important to crop specific areas as this will provide the image with a professional finish. In this case, I cropped the upper area of the image as it was unnecessary to keep. I slightly rotated the image, to even it out. After this, I decreased the saturation completely to give it the full black and white effect. I began using the different effects in the adjustments bar that is placed in the image bar at the top. I increased the contrast which gave the picture a lot more vibrancy. This also accentuated the darker areas, creating a bold, eye-catching piece. Whilst using the levels (that is in the adjustments bar) this heightened that same daring darkness across the image- I lowered the levels until I was happy with the result which merged a balance within the photo. However, whilst using the levels it began to cast even darker shadows. I decreased the shadows/highlights to fix this. I moved on to fixating the desired blur and did this by firstly cutting around the area- in this case the face. I used the quick selection tool, which is placed in the bar on the left, to complete this. Once the face was carved, I used the motion blur effect that is held in the filter bar at the top to 14. I decided to increase this level compared to my edits above, simply due to the style in which I shot the photo which was more distanced from the camera. I did purposely take the photo far as this was inspired from Thompson's pictures. I opted for a higher level of blur so it was noticeable from such a distance. Once I edited to my suitability, I darkened around the edges of the photo to create a murky, eerier feel to the image (as well as being inspired by Thompson). I used the paintbrush tool for this, decreased the hardness so it wouldn't be too opaque and dark, and swiped across the photo. I completed this by sharpening the centre of the photo so it was still noticeably lighter in that area.
Photo 4/5- For both images, I edited them in the same way as I thought this was the most ideal way to present the style of Cole Thompson's photographs through my own. I cropped the image(s) accurately as possible and leveled this out by slightly rotating to straighten it. I then decreased the saturation entirely, releasing it of colour, with only a black and white effect on the image(s). I then increased the contrast which darkened the low exposed areas of the image(s). However this lightened the high exposed areas in the image(s) too much, so in order to balance the higher and lower exposed areas of the photo I used the levels tool, stored within the adjustments bar. In both images the background is more bolder so would have easily worked well with contrast, however the subject is much lighter. By decreasing the levels, this maintained a good balance and the image(s) was evenly laid out. Once again, to fade the faces I used the quick selection tool to cut around and continued with the motion blur effect to around 7-8. However, to compliment photo 5, I also cut round the hand and blurred this. Ultimately, I darkened the corners to create a somber effect using the paintbrush tool. With the opacity decreased, I gently swiped around the image to darken equally per corner and finished with a sharpen in the centre of the image.
Photo 6- Originally, the image is significantly far, so by cropping the image and bringing it closer, it gave it a standard, professional view. The original image was quite equally balanced with displaying its original contrasts and certain shadows, so when decreasing the saturation and increasing contrast it gave it an extremely even balance. The ground had contrasted well and was dark enough not to edit again. I used the quick selection tool (which is placed on the left) to cut round the areas I wanted an ideal blur. With this image, it was the face and hands which also moved slightly upper towards the ropes on the swing. I did this as I thought it complimented well. I used the motion blur effect to 8 to blur these areas. Once these areas were blurred, I could see certain aspects on the face had darkened creating a striking, distinct effect. However I used the levels tool, and by decreasing it slightly, it had darkened perfectly. I thought by blurring the hands and above, it created an eerier effect to the image. Once again, I used the paintbrush tool to darken the remainder edges. I decided to create the size more pointed and large and gently swiped around the edges. Darkening the edges was inspired by Thompson. I constantly used this effect to portray Cole Thompson's style well within my images. Conclusively, I used the sharpening tool, which is placed on the right, to sharpen the centre of the image to show the contrast with the blur. Overall, I chose to lower the motion blur tool as I wanted it noticeable more up close but not so noticeable from a distance.
Photo 1- I began by cropping it and slightly rotating to lay it out completely straight. I edited using the adjustments bar which is in the image bar at the top and decreased the saturation to get my ideal black and white effect that was necessary for my inspired photographer (Cole Thompson). After this, I increased the contrast to darken the more contrasting areas- which are the darker areas. This balanced out the photo so it does not appear too light or too dark. Additionally, this lead on to levels. This gave me the perfect balance as both contrasting areas of the photo (light and dark) balanced evenly- as I fiddled with the level, this created the areas I wanted lighter or darker. I decreased the exposure and I was satisfied with the result. After editing the initial photo, I began to focus more closely. In Cole Thompson's photography, he uses a sort of blur in certain aspects in his photo which then inspired me to do the same. I used the quick selection tool to cut out the areas I wanted an ideal blur. In this case I cut out the face, around the head including the hand. I then used a blur tool, motion blur which is in the filter bar at the top and blurred until the level was around 8-10. I opted for a natural blur. This created a more ghostly effect on the photo which is in the style of Thompson's photos. Once pleased with the outcome, I wanted to finalise by darkening the edges lightly which is what Thompson constantly applies. I used the paintbrush tool, changed the shape so it was more pointed and large and decreased the opacity so it is not extremely harsh around the edges. I chose to apply it lightly so it would give a natural darkness to the corners of the image and completed my image by sharpening the centre as it is the lightest area of the photo.
Photo 2- To begin with, I cropped the image so it would give me a perfectly even layout. Once satisfied with the layout of the image, I decreased the saturation completely so it was a full black and white shot. I did this using the adjustments bar which is in the image bar at the top. After this, I increased the contrast to darken the more contrasting areas- which are the darker areas. This balanced out the photo so it does not appear too light or too dark. I mainly fiddled with the adjustments bar, balancing the image with levels and sharpening just above the centre of the image, to make it appear more lighter. I used the quick selection tool that is placed on the left, and cut out the ground- in this case I cut around the edge of the grass on both sides. I wanted to create a more gloomy effect so decreased the exposure which darkened it to my suitability. I then used the smudge tool for the areas I wanted an ideal blur- in this case just above the face. I decreased the hardness so it wouldn't have smudged massively. By decreasing the harshness, this enabled only a slight blur. To compliment with the smudge tool I used, I then used the quick selection tool and cut out the face, excluding the upper proportion, the head which had previously been blurred. I then used a blur tool, motion blur which is in the filter bar at the top and blurred until the level was around 8-10. I kept it at that level as I did not want it extremely blurry so that it would be difficult to see the face. Finally I wanted to finalise by darkening the edges lightly which is what Thompson constantly applies. I used the paintbrush tool, changed the shape so it was more pointed and large and decreased the opacity so it is not extremely harsh around the edges. I chose to apply it lightly so it would give a natural darkness to the corners of the image.
Photo 3- Firstly, I cropped the image to straighten the initial layout of the photo. It is important to crop specific areas as this will provide the image with a professional finish. In this case, I cropped the upper area of the image as it was unnecessary to keep. I slightly rotated the image, to even it out. After this, I decreased the saturation completely to give it the full black and white effect. I began using the different effects in the adjustments bar that is placed in the image bar at the top. I increased the contrast which gave the picture a lot more vibrancy. This also accentuated the darker areas, creating a bold, eye-catching piece. Whilst using the levels (that is in the adjustments bar) this heightened that same daring darkness across the image- I lowered the levels until I was happy with the result which merged a balance within the photo. However, whilst using the levels it began to cast even darker shadows. I decreased the shadows/highlights to fix this. I moved on to fixating the desired blur and did this by firstly cutting around the area- in this case the face. I used the quick selection tool, which is placed in the bar on the left, to complete this. Once the face was carved, I used the motion blur effect that is held in the filter bar at the top to 14. I decided to increase this level compared to my edits above, simply due to the style in which I shot the photo which was more distanced from the camera. I did purposely take the photo far as this was inspired from Thompson's pictures. I opted for a higher level of blur so it was noticeable from such a distance. Once I edited to my suitability, I darkened around the edges of the photo to create a murky, eerier feel to the image (as well as being inspired by Thompson). I used the paintbrush tool for this, decreased the hardness so it wouldn't be too opaque and dark, and swiped across the photo. I completed this by sharpening the centre of the photo so it was still noticeably lighter in that area.
Photo 4/5- For both images, I edited them in the same way as I thought this was the most ideal way to present the style of Cole Thompson's photographs through my own. I cropped the image(s) accurately as possible and leveled this out by slightly rotating to straighten it. I then decreased the saturation entirely, releasing it of colour, with only a black and white effect on the image(s). I then increased the contrast which darkened the low exposed areas of the image(s). However this lightened the high exposed areas in the image(s) too much, so in order to balance the higher and lower exposed areas of the photo I used the levels tool, stored within the adjustments bar. In both images the background is more bolder so would have easily worked well with contrast, however the subject is much lighter. By decreasing the levels, this maintained a good balance and the image(s) was evenly laid out. Once again, to fade the faces I used the quick selection tool to cut around and continued with the motion blur effect to around 7-8. However, to compliment photo 5, I also cut round the hand and blurred this. Ultimately, I darkened the corners to create a somber effect using the paintbrush tool. With the opacity decreased, I gently swiped around the image to darken equally per corner and finished with a sharpen in the centre of the image.
Photo 6- Originally, the image is significantly far, so by cropping the image and bringing it closer, it gave it a standard, professional view. The original image was quite equally balanced with displaying its original contrasts and certain shadows, so when decreasing the saturation and increasing contrast it gave it an extremely even balance. The ground had contrasted well and was dark enough not to edit again. I used the quick selection tool (which is placed on the left) to cut round the areas I wanted an ideal blur. With this image, it was the face and hands which also moved slightly upper towards the ropes on the swing. I did this as I thought it complimented well. I used the motion blur effect to 8 to blur these areas. Once these areas were blurred, I could see certain aspects on the face had darkened creating a striking, distinct effect. However I used the levels tool, and by decreasing it slightly, it had darkened perfectly. I thought by blurring the hands and above, it created an eerier effect to the image. Once again, I used the paintbrush tool to darken the remainder edges. I decided to create the size more pointed and large and gently swiped around the edges. Darkening the edges was inspired by Thompson. I constantly used this effect to portray Cole Thompson's style well within my images. Conclusively, I used the sharpening tool, which is placed on the right, to sharpen the centre of the image to show the contrast with the blur. Overall, I chose to lower the motion blur tool as I wanted it noticeable more up close but not so noticeable from a distance.
Alex T
These pictures are shot by Alex T. Alex T is an unusual, intriguing photographer and accentuates his photographs by using unique backgrounds for his images. Continuously, with all of his pictures, he replaces the head with a flower to create a unique, distinctive style to his photos. He tends to differentiate between flowers for each image, and the individuals in his photos are dressed quite differently. They are all positioned quite differently too. He also changes the angles so it does not constantly appear the same for every image. The clothing on the women, the dresses, are quirky however he also uses ordinary, formal clothing like the suit and tie. This generates more focus towards the flowers as they appear much more eccentric and striking within the photo as the other aspects of the photo are quite bland. His interesting photography has inspired me to use dark backgrounds and extraordinary flowers that will replace the heads of the individuals that will appear in my pictures. I am also inspired to dress the individuals in very peculiar clothing as well as ordinary clothing which will produce very distinguishing images. From his photographs, I will be constantly changing the angles and positions of the individuals that will be starring in my images, so every image will appear of the same type but is set differently so it is not dreary and repetitive.
My photographs in the style of Alex T:
Unedited:
Textures:
Flowers: |
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People:
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I captured a variety of photos to accomplish a creative style similar to Alex T. I captured several different photos of flowers so I could use a different flower within my own photographs just as how Alex T portrays in his photos. I deliberately took the images in different lighting so that when I begin editing the images, I can choose the best displayed flower in the best lighting which will give me the overall, best edit. I also photographed a selection of people who would display as the main subject in my images. In order for me to produce different images when editing, I did alter the clothing within each shoot which helped me achieve a variety of unique images. Additionally, I took pictures of different patterned materials using my own clothes (different dresses) to act as backgrounds as it was quite difficult to find and use professional backdrops. I made sure to capture the different materials in good lighting so during editing, the different patterned backgrounds would blend in and actually look like a professional backdrop has been used. I have labelled all images used within an edit above ^^^ .)
Edited:
I edited all images using Adobe Photoshop CC 2017. I focused on blending in the background well with person as well as attaching a flower amongst the faces which is exactly how Alex T does to produce distinctive, unique images.
Photo 1- Overall, I used 3 images to create my final edit. (They are labelled above in my original images). I began by editing the original image by adjusting the levels so the lighter areas would balance out evenly with the more contrasted areas. I began to edit the material I used as the background and used the contrast tool in the adjustments bar to darken the image and adjusted the levels on the image which made it seem more realistic as though a professional backdrop had been used which removed the shadows and creases from the clothing piece. I then used the quick selection tool to carefully cut around the original image of just the body and aligned this on the separate tab of the background material I had previously edited. I cropped the image slightly from the bottom so the main subject fit evenly onto the background. I locked both images and edited both of the images together so whilst editing, both images merged together would receive an equal amount of edit instead of receiving it separately. This helped create a more natural look as when I increased the shadows and decreased the highlights, it would apply to the whole image creating a well-blended image. Once I was satisfied with the image, I opened up a different tab of the flower I will use to replace the head mimicking exactly what Alex T does within his own images. The original image was highly saturated so I decreased the overall saturation which later on helped to blend the flower more easily. I decreased the contrast so the flower looked duller and then increased the highlights and shadows so the flower look more defined. I used the quick selection tool to cut around the flower only and then dragged this to the edited image (the subject and the background already merged in). I increased the size and positioned this on top of the persons head until everything was carefully hidden under the flower. Finally, I sharpened the image in certain areas such as the petals on the flower and the background.
Photo 2- Once again, I used a total of 3 images to produce this edit. With the original image, I cropped to only have the top proportion displayed as that is what Alex T mainly has. I increased the contrast and decreased the brightness which helped create a touch of eeriness later on. I opened the next tab of the most suitable background I wanted to use for this image. I adjusted the levels so this would completely decrease the lightness of the original blue however maintaining the bold, black patterns on the material which I definitely wanted visible in my edit. Decreasing the brightness helped to once again darken the light blue that was appearing.Using the channel mixer, I adjusted the colours so a jade colour was appearing which was a similar colour to what Alex T uses within his images. Once I was satisfied with the overall colour as the background, I used the quick selection tool to cut around the body (in the first image I edited) and dragged this on top of the background. I locked the image and increased the contrast which applied the edit to both images merged together. With my chosen flower image, I began editing it firstly by adjusting the levels which darkened the section of the flower that were too high in brightness and brightened the areas that were too dark. I decreased the overall brightness which balanced out with the levels that I previously adjusted. I decreased the saturation which produced more darker, sinister colours- the light purple darkened which created a gloomier, darker colour. The bottle green darkened to a khaki colour and the yellow areas transformed to an autumnal orange. I adjusted the channel mixer slightly so that these new colours produced, would be further emphasised. I was satisfied with these colours as once I used the quick selection tool to cut around the flower and positioned this to cover the face, the colours blended well with the image it was positioned on as this gave that touch of eeriness that I wanted to achieve in this image.
Photo 3- I began by cropping the image so that only the top proportion of the body was visible. I then decreased the saturation as the original colours were much brighter than the type of colours Alex T uses. I chose the type of material that I wanted to use as the background. I adjusted the levels which increased the contrast in certain areas where there were more shadows visible, and then further increased the contrast so that the creases were faded which created a professional background. I decided to change the colour of the background using the channel mixer, transforming it from the original grey colour to a softer, dark blue. I then used the quick selection tool to cut round the body and positioned this in the centre on top of the edited background. I decreased the size so that everything would easily fit on the image. I then chose the flower that would suitably blend in with the overall image. I edited the image by decreasing the saturation slightly and increased the contrast and shadows. I was not satisfied with the original flower so I used the quick selection tool to cut out a section of the flower and duplicated this several times to form my own edited flower using the petals from that image. I then dragged the edited flower on top of the face of the main image. I altered the position of the edited flower until it was in the right position. To finalise, I used the sharpen tool to increase the quality of the flower.
Photo 4- I cropped the image so that only the top proportion was visible and that most of the unnecessary background was removed. I then adjusted the levels which darkened the image in certain aspects and increased the contrast which added a slight increase in colour. Overall, this gave the image a darker appearance. I then began to edit the background. I adjusted the levels so this would completely decrease the lightness of the original blue however maintaining the bold, black patterns on the material which I definitely wanted visible in my edit. Decreasing the brightness helped to once again darken the light blue that was appearing.Using the channel mixer, I adjusted the colours so a jade colour was appearing which was a similar colour to what Alex T uses within his images. Once I was satisfied with the overall colour as the background, I used the quick selection tool to cut around the body (in the first image I edited) and dragged this on top of the background. I locked the image and increased the contrast which applied the edit to both images merged together. With my chosen flower image, I began editing it firstly by adjusting the levels which darkened the section of the flower that were too high in brightness and brightened the areas that were too dark. I decreased the overall brightness which balanced out with the levels that I previously adjusted. I then used the channel mixer to produce completely different colours. The purple and white areas on the petal of the original image blended to create an ombre purple effect. I adjusted the greener leaves as dark purple/burgundy with the lighter green/yellow areas transforming to a plum colour with hints of red. I then used the quick selection tool to trace around the edited flower and then positioned this on top of the face to cover all aspects, principally replacing the head with the flower. Finally, I used the sharpen tool to increase the quality of the flower producing a more defined finish.
Photo 5- I cropped the image so that only the top proportion of the image would be visible. I used the quick selection tool to cut around the body and then decreased the brightness. I then increased the contrast which created a burgundy colour. I chose the type of material that I wanted to use as the background. I adjusted the levels which increased the contrast in certain areas where there were more shadows visible, and then further increased the contrast so that the creases were faded which created a professional background. I decided to change the colour of the background using the channel mixer, transforming it from the original grey colour to a maroon colour. This would help blend all the other aspects well in the final image as the subject was in a redder colour. I dragged the main subject that was already cut out, and placed this over the maroon background. I then chose my ideal flower that would blend suitably and used the quick selection tool to cut round the main section that I wanted. Adjusting the contrast and levels, darkened the section of the flower that were too high in brightness and brightened the areas that were too dark. I then used the channel mixer to create a colour that would blend well in the background as well as the body it would be on top of. I created a purple colour in the centre of the image with red undertones on the surface on the flower. I then dragged the edited flower and positioned this just above the body covering the face. I locked all of the images in place and then adjusted the channel mixer to obtain the most appropriate type of red overall.
Photo 2- Once again, I used a total of 3 images to produce this edit. With the original image, I cropped to only have the top proportion displayed as that is what Alex T mainly has. I increased the contrast and decreased the brightness which helped create a touch of eeriness later on. I opened the next tab of the most suitable background I wanted to use for this image. I adjusted the levels so this would completely decrease the lightness of the original blue however maintaining the bold, black patterns on the material which I definitely wanted visible in my edit. Decreasing the brightness helped to once again darken the light blue that was appearing.Using the channel mixer, I adjusted the colours so a jade colour was appearing which was a similar colour to what Alex T uses within his images. Once I was satisfied with the overall colour as the background, I used the quick selection tool to cut around the body (in the first image I edited) and dragged this on top of the background. I locked the image and increased the contrast which applied the edit to both images merged together. With my chosen flower image, I began editing it firstly by adjusting the levels which darkened the section of the flower that were too high in brightness and brightened the areas that were too dark. I decreased the overall brightness which balanced out with the levels that I previously adjusted. I decreased the saturation which produced more darker, sinister colours- the light purple darkened which created a gloomier, darker colour. The bottle green darkened to a khaki colour and the yellow areas transformed to an autumnal orange. I adjusted the channel mixer slightly so that these new colours produced, would be further emphasised. I was satisfied with these colours as once I used the quick selection tool to cut around the flower and positioned this to cover the face, the colours blended well with the image it was positioned on as this gave that touch of eeriness that I wanted to achieve in this image.
Photo 3- I began by cropping the image so that only the top proportion of the body was visible. I then decreased the saturation as the original colours were much brighter than the type of colours Alex T uses. I chose the type of material that I wanted to use as the background. I adjusted the levels which increased the contrast in certain areas where there were more shadows visible, and then further increased the contrast so that the creases were faded which created a professional background. I decided to change the colour of the background using the channel mixer, transforming it from the original grey colour to a softer, dark blue. I then used the quick selection tool to cut round the body and positioned this in the centre on top of the edited background. I decreased the size so that everything would easily fit on the image. I then chose the flower that would suitably blend in with the overall image. I edited the image by decreasing the saturation slightly and increased the contrast and shadows. I was not satisfied with the original flower so I used the quick selection tool to cut out a section of the flower and duplicated this several times to form my own edited flower using the petals from that image. I then dragged the edited flower on top of the face of the main image. I altered the position of the edited flower until it was in the right position. To finalise, I used the sharpen tool to increase the quality of the flower.
Photo 4- I cropped the image so that only the top proportion was visible and that most of the unnecessary background was removed. I then adjusted the levels which darkened the image in certain aspects and increased the contrast which added a slight increase in colour. Overall, this gave the image a darker appearance. I then began to edit the background. I adjusted the levels so this would completely decrease the lightness of the original blue however maintaining the bold, black patterns on the material which I definitely wanted visible in my edit. Decreasing the brightness helped to once again darken the light blue that was appearing.Using the channel mixer, I adjusted the colours so a jade colour was appearing which was a similar colour to what Alex T uses within his images. Once I was satisfied with the overall colour as the background, I used the quick selection tool to cut around the body (in the first image I edited) and dragged this on top of the background. I locked the image and increased the contrast which applied the edit to both images merged together. With my chosen flower image, I began editing it firstly by adjusting the levels which darkened the section of the flower that were too high in brightness and brightened the areas that were too dark. I decreased the overall brightness which balanced out with the levels that I previously adjusted. I then used the channel mixer to produce completely different colours. The purple and white areas on the petal of the original image blended to create an ombre purple effect. I adjusted the greener leaves as dark purple/burgundy with the lighter green/yellow areas transforming to a plum colour with hints of red. I then used the quick selection tool to trace around the edited flower and then positioned this on top of the face to cover all aspects, principally replacing the head with the flower. Finally, I used the sharpen tool to increase the quality of the flower producing a more defined finish.
Photo 5- I cropped the image so that only the top proportion of the image would be visible. I used the quick selection tool to cut around the body and then decreased the brightness. I then increased the contrast which created a burgundy colour. I chose the type of material that I wanted to use as the background. I adjusted the levels which increased the contrast in certain areas where there were more shadows visible, and then further increased the contrast so that the creases were faded which created a professional background. I decided to change the colour of the background using the channel mixer, transforming it from the original grey colour to a maroon colour. This would help blend all the other aspects well in the final image as the subject was in a redder colour. I dragged the main subject that was already cut out, and placed this over the maroon background. I then chose my ideal flower that would blend suitably and used the quick selection tool to cut round the main section that I wanted. Adjusting the contrast and levels, darkened the section of the flower that were too high in brightness and brightened the areas that were too dark. I then used the channel mixer to create a colour that would blend well in the background as well as the body it would be on top of. I created a purple colour in the centre of the image with red undertones on the surface on the flower. I then dragged the edited flower and positioned this just above the body covering the face. I locked all of the images in place and then adjusted the channel mixer to obtain the most appropriate type of red overall.